In Kautokeino no one can hear you scream. I saw the trailer of the Norwegian film Kill Buljo a few years back in Tromsö. It is a parody of the more famous Kill Bill, and it is set in the Norwegian Lapland. Hopefully one day it will be texted so that I will be able to enjoy the film. But the slogan was somehow striking that it was maybe the main reason why I decided to take this detour through Norway.
In Kautokeino no one can hear you scream. Because either there’s nobody, or the wind blows so strong that they can’t hear you. This is more or less what happened today on the bike. A lot of wind, and a lot of swearing. Shouted out loud, as nobody couldn’t really hear me. Fortunately it didn’t rain. As this was a part of the trip I didn’t really planned – that is, coming to Norway – I didn’t have really put attention beforehand at the road between Karasjok and Kautokeino. Well, there is nothing. I mean, no villages, no shops, no gas stations for 120 km. But what impressed me the most was the absence of animals, except birds. Not even one reindeer. Maybe they were also scared by the wind, who knows.
I had no other choice than to go the whole way through to Kautokeino. I couldn’t bear another night in the wet forest. But at an average speed of 14 km/h, as the wind was blowing from any direction except from the back, it wasn’t that fun. The other thing I didn’t noticed was that Road 92 crosses many, many rivers. That is, many, many uphill and downhill. In the Norwegian way. Stiff, hard, never ending. I had promised myself I will never walk pushing the bike. Promise already broken. Twice.
After all, once you reach your destination you can’t be other than happy. Especially after a day like yesterday. This camping site is very nice, with a huge kota, a Lappish tent, where we were offered coffee, and a few customers really happy to chat. And a WLAN! I was told about the huge storm of yesterday (my nightmare was nothing compared to the one of the travellers closer to the Norwegian sea), while now the weather is still cold, the sky is cloudy, but blue spots give new hope. Tomorrow I will visit Kautokeino, and then 40 km left to get back to the Finnish soil. The tour of Norway will be for another time.
Day 13 – Tour de Finlande 2010: Somewhere in Norway – Kautokeino
Trip distance: 111 km
Actual trip time: 7 h 20 m